Attention Customers: Our customer service center is closing today, Tuesday January 28, 2014, at 4:30pm due to inclement weather conditions.
New For Fall
20 percent off all seeds - Use code 20offseeds to save.
Mon Petite Cheri Bean Seeds
Enjoy Long Harvests of Succulent Beans with this Baby Bush!

Mon Petite Cheri Bean Seeds

(P) Pkt of 100 seeds
Item # 05031-PK-P1
was $2.25
sale $1.95
Item is sold out.

Long harvest time means you pick what you need, when you need it!

Gourmet flavor and great garden performance!
58 days. Enjoy the tender, mouth-watering "gourmet" flavor of baby bush beans for no more money or time than it takes to grow the more "ordinary" full-size snaps! Mon Petite Cheri is a flavorful, extra-tender variety that arises in great abundance on erect plants. The pods are borne high on the plant, for easier harvest. Widely adaptable and very easy, this is one of the heaviest-yielding varieties available. For premium quality, pick often!

Easy and trouble-free, even for the new gardener, this snap bean is widely adapted across the U.S., and is compact in the garden. For best harvest, succession-plant every 3 weeks or so from early spring till late summer (avoiding the worst summer heat in warm areas). Hardier than pole beans, bush snaps can be direct-sown after all danger of frost. Pkt is 100 seeds.

Genus Phaseolus
Species vulgaris
Variety Mon Petite Cheri
ItemForm (P) Pkt of 100 seeds
DaysToMaturity 58
FruitColor Green
SeedsPerPack 100
AdditionalCharacteristics Edible
LightRequirements Full Sun
MoistureRequirements Moist,  well-drained
SoilTolerance Normal,  loamy
Uses Outdoor

An ancient crop found on every continent except Antarctica, the bean is a staple of the human diet in all cultures. Packed with fiber and protein (including the vital amino acid lysine), it is also an excellent source of vitamins A, B, and C; folic acid; iron; calcium; and phosphorus. Eaten with certain grains, such as corn, it makes a complete protein. Some varieties of bean can be eaten fresh, while others can be stored for many months. Doubtless the bean is responsible for the survival of countless peoples during the (at least) 9 thousand years it has been cultivated as a food crop.

How fortunate, then, that the bean should be both delicious and easy to grow! You don't need a lot of garden space for beans -- they even thrive in containers -- and few plants are easier to grow. If you've got sunshine and soil, we've got a great bean just waiting for you!


Choosing a Variety

There are as many types of beans as there are gardeners to grow them! Grown almost everywhere in the world, beans are amazingly various, with some 4,000 varieties currently available. Beans grow in two ways: vining, which we call Pole beans; and mounding, which we call Bush beans. That said, let's quickly narrow the selection by categorizing beans into their 3 main groups:

Snap or String - These are young beans intended to be eaten "pod and all" when fresh, or to be frozen or canned when young and tender. The pods are succulent and flavorful, making them a popular home garden choice. These 'green' beans can come in colors like green, gold, purple, or red, and the pods can be range from long and thin to stout or flat. Bush snap beans mature in about 45 to 55 days. Pole snaps take 60 to 70 days.

Green/Shelling - Also intended to be eaten when young (that's what "green" means; it doesn't indicate the color of the pods!), green or shelling beans are grown for the tender young seeds inside the pods. Limas (butter beans) are a popular green/shelling bean. Bush green/shelling beans harvest in 70 to 80 days; pole green/shelling beans are ready in 80 to 95 days.

Dry - Dry or hard-shelled beans are meant to be eaten after the seeds inside the pod have dried out, though many varieties, such as our own Borlotto Solista, can be picked young for fresh eating, too. Ideal for long-term storage, dry varieties were the beans of choice in home gardens until the early 20th century, when advances in storage methods and improved varieties of snap and green beans made fresh beans more readily available and much more tasty. And dry beans can be eaten young at about 90 to 100 days, but will take more weeks to dry completely in the pod for harvesting as "dry" or storage beans.


When to Start

Direct-sow beans outdoors in spring and early summer when the soil has warmed up and night temperatures remain above 55 degrees F.

If you live in a short growing season or prefer to begin the seeds indoors, sow them in large peat pots no more than 4 weeks before you plan to transplant them. Beans prefer not to be disturbed after sowing, so transplant can be chancy.


How to Start

General information for all types of beans
Beans need full sun and deep, rich, well-drained soil to grow their best. As soon as the soil is workable in spring, dig down about 8 inches in the areas you are planning to sow your beans. Work a good amount of rich compost, manure, or other organic matter into the soil. If you are planting pole beans, consider their position in relation to the rest of the vegetable garden. When the beans get tall, they will cast shade for several feet, so plan accordingly: prepare the soil on the northern end of the veggie patch to avoid shading other plants, or farther south if some shade is desired for neighboring plants.

Sow beans about 1 to 1½ inches deep. Sprinkle inoculant as you plant, to increase the nitrogen-fixing ability of the bean plants.

Expect high germination rates from your beans. You should see the first sprouts in about 6 to 10 days.

Bush beans: Space beans about 3 inches apart in single or double rows 18 to 24 inches apart. For a continuous season of bush beans, do not plant all the beans at once. Make successive plantings every 3 weeks up to 2 months before your first anticipated fall frost.

Pole beans: Space 6 to 8 beans evenly around the base of the pole or other support. If growing the beans up a trellis, space them 3 inches apart. If growing the beans up a freestanding fence, space them 3 inches apart along both sides of the fence.

Special Considerations

Beans are open-pollinated plants, not hybrids. They are self-pollinating, and technically can be cross-pollinated, but this is very rare. The standard advice is to separate different types of beans by physical space or natural barriers (such as high walls or tall, dense plants), but gardeners constantly report growing many different beans side by side with no apparent cross-pollination.

If you want to can or freeze your bean crop, consider growing varieties that harvest all at once. Snap bush beans, because of their shorter crop time, are an excellent choice.

Consider growing a Three Sisters planting of corn, pole beans, and squash. This Native American technique is one of the best examples of companion planting for mutual benefits. Not only do each of the 3 plants help the others grow their best, but the beans and the corn, if eaten together, form a complete protein! And nothing looks quite as exciting in the vegetable garden as a Three Sisters display.

Harvest fresh beans before you can see the bulge of a developing bean through the green pod. At that stage, the bean is over-mature, the pod is tough, and the beans are best eaten as a shelled bean.

Store unwashed fresh beans in plastic bags in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator for a few days. Washing the beans before storage causes them to decay quickly. Instead, wash them just before serving or cooking.

Harvest dry beans when the pods are completely brown and dried out, but before the pods have split open. The seeds inside should be hard.

Many edible bean varieties are so lovely you may wish you had them in the flower garden, and several types of beans are now grown primarily for their ornamental effect. Scarlet runner and <#prodlink#"5511">dwarf runner are all beautiful ornamental beans no sunny garden should lack. For something a little out of the ordinary, consider the magnificent Hyacinth Bean.


Growing Tips

  • Beans are a very easy and successful crop, but to make the most of them, follow three simple rules:

    • Never work with the plants in wet weather
    • Keep the garden free of debris all season long and especially after harvest
    • Don't grow beans in exactly the same spot year after year
  • Make sure your beans get about an inch of water a week. They do not need to be fertilized, but a layer of compost on top of the soil (and mulched in) a few weeks after planting can be beneficial.
  • Beans can be grown quite easily in containers. Sow and space the beans just as you would for the garden.
  • After harvesting your beans, chop up the plants and plough them back into the soil. As nitrogen fixers, they enrich garden soil tremendously.

Pests and Problems to Watch For

  • Spotted, wrinkled, or curled-under foliage are signs of Common Bean Mosaic Virus (CBM), and may lead to deformed pods. CBM is caused by aphids, which should be treated immediately with insecticidal soap. Pull up any plant showing signs of CBM, and do not plow it under or add it to the compost pile. Your best defense against CBM may be to choose resistant varieties, of which there are many. CMB-resistant snap beans include Festina, Soleil, Bash, Jade, and the superb "resistant to everything" Masai. Green/shelling varieties include Smeraldo.
  • Tiny holes in the leaves of young bean plants signal the presence of Bean Leaf Beetles. They are a danger only early in the season; later they may nibble a pod here and there, but they won't do much damage. Control them fast by pulling them off by hand and then covering the entire row (if growing bush beans) with a row cover. If you know that Bean Leaf Beetles are a problem in your growing area, try interplanting your beans with potatoes, which will fight off the beetle (while the beans return the favor by repelling potato pests!).
  • Black, brown, or red spots on the pods are the calling card of Anthracnose, a fungal disease. Prevention is the only remedy here: be sure not to cultivate your beans in wet weather, clean any debris from the bean growing area promptly, and rotate crops from year to year.

View All Know Before You Grow Topics

Overall Rating: 5 Stars
Average Based on 1 Reviews Write a Review
The Best green beans
Make It Joyful from AB wrote (September 25, 2012):
My sister highly recommends these and she is right. So delicious that it changes your attitude to green beans.
Bean Germination Information

Bean Seed Germination How to Sow Beans:
  • Innoculate with a nitrogen-fixing bacteria prior to sowing
  • Seeds are best sown outdoors after all danger of frost is past in the spring and when the soil is warm
  • Seeds can also be sown indoors 3 weeks before planting them out in a warm soil
  • Sow them in individual pots at a temperature of 70° and at the same depth as outdoors
  • Indoors and out, expect germination in 6-10 days
  • It is 8-10 weeks between sowing and fruit production
  • When sowing seed outdoors, we recommend a maximum planting depth of 4X the width of the seed

How to Grow Beans:
Transplanting: Transplant when there are at least two sets of true leaves

Spacing: Space bush varieties 2-3 inches apart in rows spaced 18-24 inches apart. Space pole varieties 6-8 inches apart in rows 36 inches apart

Soil: Site in full sun in a neutral, loose, rich, moist, well-drained soil. Feed with a 1-2-2 ratio fertilizer prior to planting and again when 6-8 inches tall

Additional Care: Bush Beans will mature faster than Pole Beans, so for a continuous crop, successively sow them every 2 weeks until 2 months before first frost. Pole Beans are more productive and need to be grown on a trellis, fence, tripod, or other structure

Appearance and Use:

Green, Snap, French, String, and Wax Beans are all produced by this vining or bushing, annual plant. Harvest when the beans are succulent, just before they are mature. Keep them picked to keep the plants producing. To dry beans, allow them to remain on the plant until they turn brown and begin to shatter


About Beans:
Botanical name: Phaseolus vulgaris
Pronunciation:  få-se-o’-lus vul-ga’ris
Lifecycle:  Perennial
Origination: Fabaceae; native to tropical America

Superior Germination Through Superior Science

Park's Superior Seeds Park Seed's humidity- and temperature-controlled seed storage vault Park Seed offers some of the highest-quality vegetable and flower seeds available in the industry, and there are a number of reasons for this.

First of all, we have humidity- and temperature-controlled storage, and we never treat any of our seeds with chemicals or pesticides. Nor do we ever sell GMO's (genetically modified seeds), so you always know the products you're buying from us are natural as well as safe for you and the environment.

Superior Standards - University Inspected

Testing seeds against minimum germination standards To make sure we are providing the best seed product possible and that our customers will get the highest number of seedlings from every packet, we conduct our own germination testing and have quality-control measures in every stage of our seed-handling operation. We hold ourselves to standards that are at or above federal and state standards, including testing specific crops more frequently than recommended by federal guidelines. And in order to maintain our organic certification, we welcome Clemson University to inspect us annually to make sure our organic seeds, which are stored and processed separately, are being handled properly.

Hand Packed By Experienced Technicians

Park Seed has been handling and packing vegetable and flower seeds for 145 years, a history that has given us a great understanding of how each variety should be cared for and maintained throughout every step of theprocess, from collection to shipping.

When packing our seeds, the majority are actually done by hand (with extreme care!), and we often over-pack them, so you're receiving more than the stated quantity.

The Park Seed Gold Standard

Park Seed's exclusive Fresh-Pak gold foil seed packets And many of our seeds are packed in our exclusive Fresh-Pak gold foil packets, which are lined to keep moisture out, so the seeds stay fresher for longer. We carefully pack very tiny or fragile seeds in crush-proof vials to ensure safe delivery to your home. Some of the small seeds are also offered as "pellets" (have a clay coating) to make sowing and growing easier.

When it comes to the kinds of seeds we offer, we are constantly seeking something new and provide many unique and hard-to-find varieties from all around the world. Our on-staff horticulturists are ready and available to share their expertise to help you with the success of these seeds, so you can grow a beautiful and productive garden!

Does Park sell GMO's or treated seeds?

It is important for our customers to know that Park Seed does not sell GMO or treated seed. We do buy a small amount of traditional hybrid seed from Seminis, a division of Monsanto Co., but that is all we purchase from them.

What are the differences between organic, heirloom, and hybrid seed?

Basically, organic seeds are seeds that are produced without the use and exposure to artificial/chemical fertilizers, insecticides, fungicides, herbicides, and other chemicals. They have to be grown, harvested, stored, and handled under very strict organic rules and procedures. All of our organic seeds are USDA 100% certified organic through Clemson University and the certificate has to be renewed yearly.

Heirloom Seeds are open-pollinated -- they are not hybrids. You can gather and save heirloom seed from year to year and they will grow true to type every year, so they can be passed down through generations. To be considered an heirloom, a variety would have to be at least from the 1940's and 3 generations old (many varieties are much older -- some 100 years or more!).

Hybrid seed are the product of cross-pollination between 2 different parent plants, resulting in a new plant/seed that is different from the parents. Unlike Heirloom seed, hybrid seed need to be re-purchased new every year (and not saved). They usually will not grow true to type if you save them, but will revert to one of the parents they were crossed with and most likely look/taste different in some way.

What are pelleted seeds? Why do you use them? How do I handle/sow them?

Extremely small seed such as Petunias and Pentas are shipped as pelleted seed to make them easier to handle and sow. Pelleted seed are coated, usually with clay, to make them larger in size. After sowing, the coating will dissolve when wet and the seed will germinate. Pelleted seeds are shipped in vials placed inside seed packets, which protects them from being crushed. When sowing, be certain to use thoroughly moistened soil, to be sure that the clay coating absorbs enough moisture to dissolve. For sowing pelleted Petunia seeds, place the seeds directly on the soil surface and do not cover with soil, as light aids in the germination.

What is ideal temperature to germinate most seeds?

The ideal temperature to germinate most seeds is approximately 70 degrees F; give or take 1-2 degrees either way. This would be a good germination temperature for most flower and vegetable seeds and would be the most practical and feasible temperatures achieved for gardeners starting seeds in the home. You will notice for some seeds that it is recommended to use alternating day (warmer), night (cooler), temperatures, which is fine if one can provide such conditions. But most people are unable to provide those temperatures in a home setting, so just use the overall 70 degree F recommendation and the seeds should germinate well.

How long should grow lights be kept on per day and how close to the plants should the light be kept?

For germination and seedling/plant growth, you want to simulate the natural day-night cycles, and as a general rule, grow lights should be on 8-12 hours per day and off at night. You can vary this timing, as some seeds such as tomato, pepper, petunia, impatiens, and others, benefit from 14-17 hours of light per day (and the remainder of the 24 hour period in darkness). The most common grow lights used are fluorescent; using cool white, warm white, and wide-spectrum fluorescent tubes. These lights work well for germination and for growing plants up to a transplantable size. Fluorescent lights should be kept close though, 3-6 inches above the soil or the growing plants, adjusting the height as the plants grow.

How long will seeds keep in storage?

Park Seed stores seed in a special temperature- and humidity-controlled storage facility, which keeps seeds in excellent condition. Our seeds should be good for at least 1-2 years on average. Seed viability and storage time will vary depending on the seed item; some will keep a shorter time and some will keep longer. Seeds should be stored in a cool, dark, dry place. A basement will do (if not too humid), or a cool, dark room or closet. We recommend the best way to extend seed storage life is to store them in something air tight, such as a plastic zipper storage bag or canning jar, and place it in the refrigerator. This will extend the life of seeds for many years.

What is the best way to store seeds over a longer time period?

We recommend the best way to extend seed storage life is to store seeds in something air tight, such as a plastic zipper storage bag or canning jar, and place it in the refrigerator. This will extend the life of seeds for many years.

What depth should I sow various seeds?

When sowing seed outdoors, we recommend a maximum planting depth of 4X the width of the seed. When sowing seed indoors, the planting depth can be less, depending on the seed being sown, so it is always best to check specific directions. Here are some general guidelines concerning planting depth in relation to seed size: Tiny, dust-like seeds need to be sown on the surface of the growing medium or soil, uncovered, as they need light to germinate. The planting depth for small seed can be anywhere from barely covering, to 1/8-inch deep, to possibly 1/4-inch deep, depending on the recommendation. Medium seed should be planted at 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep, depending on the recommendation. Larger seeds can be planted 1-inch or deeper, depending on the recommendation.

The ancient Native American technique of growing Corn, Beans, and Squash together in an arrangement called the Three Sisters is the ultimate in companion planting and helps increase harvests, naturally!

Corn acts as a support for climbing bean vines, the beans fix nitrogen in the soil for the high feeding requirements of corn and squash, and the squash provides mulch and root protection for the corn and beans! After cooperating beautifully in the garden, corn and beans form a complete protein when eaten together! How's that for a mutually beneficial relationship?

The Three Sisters are all easy to direct sow in the garden and are a great project for children, teaching them about the beauty of natural harmony while providing a fast-growing reward for their efforts.

Make the best possible use of your garden space this season, and try growing the Three Sisters! Just follow the easy steps listed below, fertilize well, plant other companions like herbs to assist with pest control, and you'll be harvesting your best crop in no time!

In May or June when soil has warmed:

Shape a flat-topped circular mound of soil about a foot high and 2 feet across at the top, sloping outward toward the base. Plant a circle of corn seeds on top, about 5 or 6, and water them in well, tamping down your soil mound firmly so it doesn't wash away in the first rain. Space the mounds 3 or 4 feet apart in the garden.

Since all corn grows on sturdy, dependable stalks, the variety you choose depends on the flavor, disease resistance, and holding ability you want. Sugar Buns is a Sugar Enhanced (SE) yellow hybrid with absolutely scrumptious golden kernels and is positively scrumptious. For SE whites, you can't beat Silver Princess, with extra-long ears bursting with flavor. And for the sweetest ears yet, you absolutely must try Corn Mirai, available in Yellow, White, Bicolor, and even a Mini!

About two weeks later:

When your corn reaches about 5 or 6 inches high, plant Bean seeds (6 to 8 of them) around the edges of the flat top or about halfway down the sloping sides of the circular mound. Push the seeds down deep into the soil and, if you're planting on the slope, make sure the soil is nice and firm. Add a bit of Nature's Aid at planting time to help the Beans fix nitrogen.

To get your Beans to climb up the cornstalks, choose Pole rather than Bush varieties. Smeraldo is far and away the best-tasting Pole Bean, with flat pods up to 10 inches long on vigorous 4- to 6-foot vines. Park gardeners rave about Kwintus, a super-early performer with succulent pods on stringless 8- to 10-inch pods. And is the classic name in Beans, with top-quality dark green pods that are both stringless and fiberless, even if you pick them a bit late. We even have Blue Lake available in organic seed!

One week or so after that:

Plant Squash seeds around the base of the mound, on flat ground. You can make them radiate around the mound, or just go in the direction you have available space! 6 to 8 seeds in a ring around the base of the mound is usually plenty.

The traditional Squash family member for this Sister is Pumpkin, with its all-American flavor and long growing season. For a quicker harvest, grow Summer Squash varieties such as organic Early Summer Crookneck or Zucchini such as space-saving Eight Ball Hybrid.

When everything begins growing...

Thin the plantings to 2 or 3 Corn stalks, each with no more than 2 Bean plants winding around it. (You'll need to help the Beans get started growing up the stalks). The Squash is going to vine along the ground, so the number of plants you need depends on how far apart your mounds of corn and beans are, how long the vines get, and how much walking space you need in the garden.

Add a FOURTH sister: Sunflowers!

Sunflowers attract birds, thus tempting them away from your corn plants. They shade the vining bean plants while also adding support. Plus, they're beautiful! It's a win-win situation!

Superfoods

A superfood is one that is exceptionally nutritious, with low caloric content and high amounts of fiber, protein, or vital nutrients.  A balanced diet containing many (or all) can have miraculous health benefits, preventing and even reversing almost every negative condition associated with age.


Take a look at this rundown of what exactly makes these plants so great, and start planning your life-changing garden today!

The average Apple contains only 47 calories, but it is packed with vitamin C, Potassium, Fiber, and antioxidants (polyphenols and flavonoids) that fight the negative effects of aging. So, it’s true what they say about an apple a day, but that isn’t the only food that should be a staple of a healthy diet!


Avocado is the richest fruit in terms of folate, potassium, vitamin E, and magnesium. They are also a great source of the “good fat”: oleic acid, a monounsaturated fat,  so enjoy that wonderful flavor with relish!


Beans, especially lentils, are a great alternative to meat, adding just as much protein without all that saturated fat.


Blueberries are one of the richest sources of phytonturients (antioxidants), which can help improve health and, most importantly, prevent cancer! 1 to 2 cups of blueberries a day will provide a good daily dose of these miraculous phytonutrients.


Broccoli is notorious for its health benefits, and for good reason! Extremely low in calories and extremely high in a wide variety of vitamins (plus antioxidants), Broccoli is truly a fool-proof food.  Eating it has a myriad of health benefits, from boosting the immune system to improving heart health.


Cinnamon is not just a delicious spice to please your palate, it has also been found to have unexpected health benefits: it is a naturally antibacterial that can stop the growth of bacteria like E. Coli in food, and it is also a great glucose moderator, helping people with type II diabetes decrease their glucose levels, triglycerides, and LDLs.


Garlic contains many nutrients and amino acids, but is best known for the sulfur compound allicin, an amino acid that serves as a general health promoter, fighting everything from viruses to old age, arthritis, stroke, and cancer. This is why Garlic has been used medicinally since at least 2600 BC.


Kiwi is extremely rich in Vitamin C (more than oranges), which can boost immune function, fight free radicals, and improve heart health.  Kiwi has even been shown to reduce the formation of blood clots, and it is a rare low-calorie source of Vitamin E (most sources are high in fat).


Onions have recently been found to produce a powerful compound when cut: thiopropanal sulfoxide. It is this substance that gives onions their disease-fighting and antioxidant properties, and it is also the reason for their pungent aroma and eye-watering effects. For the greatest health benefits, let your onions sit for a few minutes between cutting and cooking so that this compound has enough time to form.


Oranges are well known as an important source of Vitamin C, and they also contain a flavonoid called hesperidin, which has powerful antioxidant and antimutagenic properties on its own, and also amplifies those properties of Vitamin C, creating a very powerful synergy for preventing many types of cancers, as well as promoting general health.


Pomegranate juice has the highest polyphenol concentration of any fruit juice, making it a fantastic antioxidant. It is also rich in Potassium, Vitamin C, and Vitamin B6.


Pumpkin is the healthiest of all the gourds, being extremely high in fiber but low in calories, and having a uniquely potent combination of carotenoids.  The carotenoids in pumpkins—most notably alpha- and beta-carotene—promote skin health and eye health, and also help prevent cancer, most notably breast and lung cancers.


Soy is an amazingly affordable and abundant source of protein. Not only is it the most concentrated plant protein available, it also provides small doses of minerals, phytontrients, omega 3 fatty acids, and all nine essential amino acids. Soy really does have everything!


Spinach is a great source of iron and also contains a truly impressive array of all types of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.  Popeye’s favorite veggie is reputed to prevent everything from cardiovascular disease to colon cancer to cataracts.


Tomatoes are so delicious that, let’s be honest, most of us would eat them no matter how bad for us they were. Luckily, tomatoes are good for you, helping to prevent cancer and heart disease, due largely to the rare antioxidant Lycopene, which gives tomatoes their red color.

Park Seed is the best source for all these foods—our seeds are a great value because of their low price and high germination rate, while our plants are well-established and guaranteed true to type, providing  you surefire bumper crops of these Super edibles!


And growing your own superfoods doesn’t just save you money—it also has added health benefits compared to the food you would get at the supermarket.  First of all, you can carefully control any chemicals used in your own garden, so you know your family isn’t going to be adversely affected by the pesticides, preservatives, hormones, and artificial coloring that gets into supermarket food.
Secondly, fresh foods right from the garden actually serve up much more nutrition to your body than store-bought foods. 

Scientists have found that  vegetables and fruits begin to lose nutritional value once they are picked, and that key nutrients degrade when cooked. So, it turns out that even some super foods aren’t that great for you once they spend several days getting to your kitchen and then you have to cook them.


This just confirms what wise gardeners have been saying forever—the healthiest foods are the ones that you eat fresh right from your garden!  Invest in a season’s worth of superfoods for you and your family—it’s just as good for you as getting a gym membership, but so much more affordable!