Bossa Nova Hybrid Squash Seeds

Days to Maturity: 30 to 45 from direct sow

AAS Winner 2015

Falling in love with your vegetable garden this year? Blame it on the Bossa Nova . . . zucchini, that is. This Caserta squash has just walked off with an All-America Selections award for improved earliness and lateness (meaning that it keeps producing nearly a month after others have quit for the season), terrific texture and flavor, plus charming green-on-green stripes and mottles that make the fruit easy to see among all those shadows and dark green leaves when you're harvesting.

Bossa Nova won't look like any other zucchini in your summer garden. It's more club-shaped than straight, and while it can get very long, you should harvest it at about 8 to 10 ounces for best flavor. The light green base with darker green markings really does make this squash easy to see, and adds some nice plate appeal.

But the real benefit of Bossa Nova is the flavor. The flesh is smooth and succulent, with just the right mix of solids and liquids. The flavor is quite mild and sweet, with no trace of bitterness. This is a gourmet zucchini, but with the yields Bossa Nova gives you, it sure doesn't act like one.

Expect this zucchini to begin producing about two weeks earlier than most others, and to continue three weeks or more at the end of the season, when others have given up. The vine is quite compact, reaching just 4 feet long or so, and easy to train up a fence or other sturdy support if your garden is space-challenged. Versatile, easy—and did we mention that Bossa Nova is resistant to both watermelon mosaic virus and zucchini yellow mosaic virus? Add to that its earliness, which helps protect it from squash borers, and you've got one tough-as-nails squash.

Bossa Nova is called a Caserta squash based on a type popular in Brazil (which is probably where the fun Bossa Nova name really came from). Way back in 1949, a striped zucchini called Caserta won an All-America Selection, so Bossa Nova is following a tradition. If you've never tried this type of squash before, you may find it similar to cocozelles, the Italian heirloom zuke: rich, meaty, satisfying, and a little more distinctive in flavor than our traditional American dark green types. Enjoy.

Sow seeds 1 inch deep directly into the garden after the danger of frost is past. Thin the seedlings to 24 inches apart, or plant several seeds in hills 4 feet apart and then thin to 2 plants per hill. For even earlier harvests, start seeds indoors.

From Squash casseroles and stuffed Zucchinis to Pumpkin pies and jack-o'-lanterns, these versatile garden favorites offer something wonderful for everyone! Their history is long and rich, and their potential as a food source as well as a beautiful fall-season decoration is unsurpassed.

Choosing a Variety: Squash & Pumpkins

Pumpkins and Squash offer a wonderful variety of colors, sizes, and shapes, providing you with many options as far as flavors and applications. You can grow Pumpkins that range from small to giant -- anywhere from about 2 pounds to 100 pounds or more! Some are better for eating while others are mainly used for decoration.

When you're deciding which Squash you want to grow, you can choose from a delicious selection of summer or winter Squash. The summer varieties (which include Zucchini) are best for fresh eating and quick harvests, while the winter ones are great for storing and baking.

When to Start Squash & Pumpkins

Pumpkins and Squash are best direct sown outdoors after all danger of frost has passed in the spring and the soil has warmed. They can be sown indoors (at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees F) 2 to 3 weeks before planting out, but direct sowing is recommended.

If you want Pumpkins for Halloween, plant from late May (in northern climates) to early July (in extremely southern locations). Keep in mind that if your Pumpkins are planted too early they may rot before Halloween.

How to Start Squash & Pumpkins

Pumpkins and Winter Squash:

Sow the seeds at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed, siting them in full sun in rich, sandy, well-drained soil. Fertilize before planting and then again every 3 weeks until you harvest. It's very important to keep the plants weeded and well watered. If you're growing your Pumpkins on hills, space the vines about 8 feet apart. If instead you choose to plant them in rows, space the vines 3 to 4 feet apart in rows that are about 8 to 12 feet apart. You can also grow them on a trellis, an option especially appealing if you have limited space. Expect germination in 7 to 10 days.

Summer Squash and Zucchini:

Sow the seeds at a depth of 1 to 1¼ inches, siting them in full sun in rich, sandy, well-drained soil. Fertilize before planting and then again every 3 weeks until you harvest. It's very important to keep the plants weeded and well watered. If you're growing your Squash on hills, space the plants about 4 feet apart. If instead you choose to plant them in rows, space the plants 2 to 3 feet apart in rows that are about 4 to 6 feet apart. Expect germination in 7 to 10 days and harvests in 40 to 50 days.

Special Considerations

Summer Squash can cross with similar varieties such as Acorn Squash and jack-o'-lantern Pumpkins. The cross-pollination will not be apparent with your current crop, but it's not recommended that you use the seeds for the following season. However, summer Squash will not cross-pollinate with Melons or Cucumbers.

If your summer Squash become too large (hard and seedy) they will sap the strength away from the plant that would otherwise be used to grow more fruit. Just throw away any that become too large.

Keep in mind that although squash plants produce both male and female flowers, it's only the Female flowers that produce fruit.

Vining Pumpkins need at least 50 to 100 square feet per hill.

Growing Tips for Squash and Pumpkins

• Squash do best in a well-drained, sandy loam that is high in organic matter.
• Pumpkins and Squash do not transplant easily. If you want to start your seeds indoors use paper containers or some other type of fiber material that will peel away from the roots without causing them any damage. Also, only have one seedling to each container. Peat pots are also good, as they can be planted as-is, thus minimizing root disturbance.

• Summer Squash can be planted any time after there is no longer a danger of frost -- from early spring until midsummer.
• Summer Squash will produce excellent yields in any well-drained soil.
• Harvest your summer Squash when they're small and tender. They can over mature rather quickly since they develop so rapidly after pollination, so check your crop frequently in order to pick them at their peak quality.
• Elongated varieties are best at 2 inches or less in diameter and about 6 to 8 inches long. The smaller "Patty Pan" types are best at 3 to 4 inches in diameter.
• If your Squash does get too large it can still be used for things such as stuffing or grating into breads and other dishes.
• Summer Squash develop very quickly and are ready to pick within 4 to 8 days of flowering. This is especially true in hot weather.
• Take care when harvesting your Squash -- they can bruise and scratch easily, and the leafstalks and stems are prickly, so they can irritate unprotected hands and arms. Wear gloves and harvest with pruning shears or a sharp knife.
• Storing your summer Squash: place unwashed fruit in plastic bags in your refrigerator's crisper. Use within 2 or 3 days for best quality.
• The open blossoms (before the fruits appear) are also edible -- they're delicious dipped in batter and fried.

Winter Squash:

• Harvest the fruits when the rind becomes hard and they're a deep, solid color.
• You will want to harvest most of your crop before heavy frosts, in September or October.
• When cutting from the vine, leave about 2 inches of vine attached to the fruit.
• If the fruit becomes cut or bruised or they are subjected to heavy frosts, use them as quickly as possible or compost them -- keep an eye out for seedlings in your compost pile!
• Winter Squash should be stored in a dry area that stays between 50 and 55 degrees F. If you need to store them for an extended period of time place them in a single layer, preferably not touching each other. This reduces the chance of spreading rot.

Pumpkins:

• Use a sharp knife or pruning shears to harvest, leaving 3 to 4 inches of stem attached to the fruit.
• Handle and store as you would other winter Squash.

Pests and Problems to Watch For

Powdery mildew:

• Plant resistant varieties whenever you can.
• If you can avoid it, don't apply nitrogen fertilizers late in the season. This will limit the production of succulent tissue, which is the most susceptible to infection.
• Avoid overhead watering.
• Remove and destroy infected plants -- DO NOT compost them!
• Allow for as much air circulation as you can.

Squash bugs:

• Choose pest-resistant varieties when possible.
• Early detection is very important, so look over your plants often.
• If only a few of your plants are infected, you can just collect and destroy the bugs and their egg masses. Boards, shingles, or something similar can be placed on the ground near the plants -- the bugs will often concentrate themselves to that area.
• You can cover the vines until blossoming begins, at which time they'll have to be uncovered for pollination.
• Burn or compost plant debris at the end of the season.
• Chemical insecticides can be used if nothing else works. Follow all label directions and safety precautions.

Cucumber beetles:

• Choose pest-resistant varieties if possible.
• Plow early to remove vegetation and discourage egg laying.
• Sandy soils aren't usually as susceptible to pest problems.
• Row covers can keep them off until the plants are well established.
• You can apply a foliar insecticide at the cotyledon stage (the appearance of the first leaves). Be sure to follow label instructions and safety precautions.

Squash borers:

• After you harvest the fruit, destroy the spent vines to kill any larvae that may be hiding inside the stems.
• Plow in fall or spring to kill any cocoons that may have over wintered.
• Some gardeners like to plant a trap crop of very early-planted squash -- it can alleviate pest pressure on other, later varieties.
• You can remove the borers by hand by slitting the stem with a knife, removing the intruder, and then covering the slit area with soil, which will promote additional root formation. You can also pick the eggs off by hand.
• Place a barrier or cover over the stems to prevent the borers from laying eggs in the first place.
• You can catch and destroy the moths -- do this at twilight or in the early morning as they rest on the upper side of the leaf bases.
• Use an appropriate insecticide, but be sure to read instructions and advise on when to apply, as timing is crucial.
• Borers are quite susceptible to natural enemies, such as parasitic wasps, especially in the egg stage.

View All Know Before You Grow Topics

Squash/Zucchini Germination Information

• Best sown outdoors after all danger of frost has past in the spring
• Seeds can also be sown indoors, 2-3 weeks before planting out, at a temperature of 70-75°
• Indoors and out, sow seeds 1- 11/4 inch deep and expect germination in 7-10 days
• It is 40-50 days from sowing to harvesting

Cucurbita pepo produces the bushy Summer Squash, Zucchini, and the lesser-known Custard Squashes and Crooknecks. It also produces some of the vining winter squashes that are treated in a separate entry. The types treated here taste best when harvested immature, when the skin is easily pierced with the thumbnail. Pick them when ready in order to keep the vine producing new fruits

Superior Germination Through Superior Science

First of all, we have humidity- and temperature-controlled storage, and we never treat any of our seeds with chemicals or pesticides. Nor do we ever sell GMO's (genetically modified seeds), so you always know the products you're buying from us are natural as well as safe for you and the environment.

Superior Standards - University Inspected

Hand Packed By Experienced Technicians

When packing our seeds, the majority are actually done by hand (with extreme care!), and we often over-pack them, so you're receiving more than the stated quantity.

The Park Seed Gold Standard

Heirloom Seeds are open-pollinated -- they are not hybrids. You can gather and save heirloom seed from year to year and they will grow true to type every year, so they can be passed down through generations. To be considered an heirloom, a variety would have to be at least from the 1940's and 3 generations old (many varieties are much older -- some 100 years or more!).

Hybrid seed are the product of cross-pollination between 2 different parent plants, resulting in a new plant/seed that is different from the parents. Unlike Heirloom seed, hybrid seed need to be re-purchased new every year (and not saved). They usually will not grow true to type if you save them, but will revert to one of the parents they were crossed with and most likely look/taste different in some way.