Butterfruit Original Early Corn Seeds

The first of the Butterfruit varieties, this corn made thousands of converts to this extra-sweet type! The short, 5-foot plants mature very early, bearing plenty of long, well-filled ears. For delectable eating all summer, you can't do better than yummy Butterfruit!

The kernels on this vigorous plant are bright yellow and tightly packed from base to tip, with a savory flavor that everyone loves. You can space these smaller stalks a bit closer together to increase yields still further.

Butterfruit is a Super Sweet variety, specially bred to contain twice the sugar of regular sweet corn. Super Sweets retain their flavor and tenderness up to 2 weeks longer than Regular Sweets. They require warm soil for good germination, and must be isolated from other corn varieties by 200 feet or at least 2 weeks planting time.

Sow after last spring frost, when the soil is warm. Corn is famously easy to direct-sow in any sunny spot. To extend your corn harvest, make successive plantings weekly up to mid-July, or plant varieties with differing maturity dates.

Consider growing a Three Sisters planting this season! The three sisters are corn, beans, and squash, planted together all help each other grow and produce their best. The beans climb up the corn stalks and the squash vines shade the roots of the corn and the beans. Native Americans developed the Three Sisters many centuries ago, and it makes a charming and useful combination planting. Butterfruit is a great choice for this, with its strong stalks and good yields!

Corn is one of the most versatile and best-loved veggies you can grow. It's been cultivated for thousands of years, increasing in popularity over time, as its attributes have become more and more obvious. Not only is it delicious in a wide variety of dishes as well as fresh from the stalk, but its uses go well beyond the culinary world. From Corn-on-the-cob and popcorn to syrups and cereals and an abundance of other products (edible and not!), this tasty vegetable is truly remarkable!

Choosing a Variety

When choosing what type of Corn to grow, you'll be able to pick from white, yellow, and bicolor varieties as well as consider a number of other traits that affect taste and tenderness. Here's a list of different hybrid varieties and their main characteristics:

Regular Sweet Hybrids -- Traditional, old-fashioned Corn flavor, delicious without an emphasis on sweetness. High yielding.
Sugar Enhanced Varieties -- Sweeter than regular strains, and with a sweetness that lasts longer after the Corn has been picked. A creamy, tender texture and no planting isolation needed from other Sweet Corn.
Super Sweet Varieties -- Bred for twice the sweetness of regular Corn. Will hold their tenderness and sweetness up to two weeks. They must be planted in totally warm soil and kept isolated from other types by 200 feet or 14 days planting time.
New Triple Sweet Varieties -- Wonderfully sweet, but they were bred to add more original Corn taste to the sweetness, improve crunchy texture, and hold their flavor and sweetness even longer. Requires no isolation from other Sweet Corns.

When to Start

Corn is best sown outdoors in situ after all danger of frost has past in spring. Sow in warm soil -- optimum temperature is at least 60 degrees F. Sweet Corn can be started indoors 2 weeks before the last frost at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees F, but direct sowing is recommended.

How to Start

If you want a continuous crop, sow every two weeks until early spring. Sow at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed in rows that are 24 to 36 inches apart. Plant in full sun in a rich, moist, well-drained soil. Once the seedlings appear, thin them to 3 to 12 inches apart. If you have started them inside and are transplanting them, do so when they have at least two sets of true leaves and allow them the same amount of space as previously mentioned. Expect germination in 7 to 10 days.

Special Considerations

Cross-pollination can occur between different varieties of Corn, affecting taste, color, and other qualities. To prevent this, isolate each type by at least 700 feet, or allow at least 14 days between times of maturity.

Do not plant sooner than 10 days to 2 weeks after the date of the last killing frost. If you plant too early, your seedlings may die or their growth can be delayed.

Since Corn is wind pollinated, it's better to plant 4 or more short, side-by-side rows than 1 or 2 long rows. This will help pollination and ear development.

Growing Tips

• Side dress your Corn plants with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.
  
• Harvest your Sweet Corn once the silks have dried -- this will be approximately 3 weeks after silking.
  
• Harvesting: break the stem of the ear (shank) close to the ear. Avoid breaking the main stock or tearing the stem from the stalk. Just hold the ear near the base and bend it down sharply. You can also bend it to the side.
  
• You can expect at least one ear (sometimes more) from each stalk.
  
• In order to maintain the sugar content you will want to refrigerate your Sweet Corn right away.

Pests and Problems to Watch For

• Corn borer -- This moth's larvae feeds on all above-ground tissues of the plant. The cavities they produce interfere with the translocation of water and nutrients, thus reducing the strength of both the stalk and the ear shank. Some methods of control include using a pest-resistant variety, destroying infected stalks at the end of the season, and harvesting early before the moths have a chance to lay eggs.
  
• Corn earworm -- These caterpillars feed on the tips of the ears of Corn, devouring the kernels and sometimes even destroying the silks before pollination has completed. This results in deformed ears that are susceptible to disease and mold. They can be controlled with Bt, a natural bacteria that produces toxic proteins that kill certain insects. You can also till in fall and spring to expose pupae to wind, weather, and predators, release beneficial insects such as trichogramma wasps, lacewings, minute pirate bugs, and damsel bugs, or use botanical insecticides (always read instructions and cautions before use).
  
• Smut -- Corn smut is caused by a fungus, and it can be removed by hand and buried or burned. Since the spores can get into your Corn through injured parts of the plant, try to avoid injury of roots, stalks, and leaves during cultivation. Also, plant disease-resistant varieties when possible, and at the end of the season, plow diseased stalks to bury any surviving spores.
  
• Stewart's disease (bacterial wilt) -- This disease is caused by a bacteria that's transmitted by several insects, namely the flea beetle, which will over winter and spread the disease once it starts feeding on the new year's crop. To control it, plant disease-resistant plants whenever possible, eliminate or discourage the presence of flea beetles, and don't use seeds that were produced in a field contaminated with Stewart's wilt.
  
• Flea beetle - Flea beetles, so named for their tendency to jump when disturbed, love Corn. They produce a characteristic injury to leaves known as "shot-holing." Young plants and seedlings are particularly susceptible to this damage. You can use Sevin® Dust or organic Neem oil to control them.

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Corn Germination Information

• Best sown outdoors in situ after all danger of frost is past in the spring
• Sow in a warm soil
• Seeds can also be sown indoors, 2 weeks before last frost, at a temperature of 70-75°
• For a continuous crop of sweet corn, sow every 2 weeks until early spring
• Indoors and out, sow at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed and expect germination in 7-10 days

Plants grow to 15 feet tall by 3 feet wide with long, strap-shaped green leaves. It is grown for the sweet corn that is eaten fresh (it also cans and freezes well) and for the dried kernels that become Pop Corn. Harvest sweet corn when the silks have dried; harvest pop corn when the stalks have dried. Sweet corn cobs are also used as animal silage and the stalks as fodder

Note: These seed counts are estimates. The actual number of seeds per ounce/pound may vary slightly.

* A few varieties may have a different (P) Pkt seed count than the quantity listed; check the specific variety's description for the number of seeds per pkt.

Superior Germination Through Superior Science

First of all, we have humidity- and temperature-controlled storage, and we never treat any of our seeds with chemicals or pesticides. Nor do we ever sell GMO's (genetically modified seeds), so you always know the products you're buying from us are natural as well as safe for you and the environment.

Superior Standards - University Inspected

Hand Packed By Experienced Technicians

When packing our seeds, the majority are actually done by hand (with extreme care!), and we often over-pack them, so you're receiving more than the stated quantity.

The Park Seed Gold Standard

Heirloom Seeds are open-pollinated -- they are not hybrids. You can gather and save heirloom seed from year to year and they will grow true to type every year, so they can be passed down through generations. To be considered an heirloom, a variety would have to be at least from the 1940's and 3 generations old (many varieties are much older -- some 100 years or more!).

Hybrid seed are the product of cross-pollination between 2 different parent plants, resulting in a new plant/seed that is different from the parents. Unlike Heirloom seed, hybrid seed need to be re-purchased new every year (and not saved). They usually will not grow true to type if you save them, but will revert to one of the parents they were crossed with and most likely look/taste different in some way.

The ancient Native American technique of growing Corn, Beans, and Squash together in an arrangement called the Three Sisters is the ultimate in companion planting and helps increase harvests, naturally!

Corn acts as a support for climbing bean vines, the beans fix nitrogen in the soil for the high feeding requirements of corn and squash, and the squash provides mulch and root protection for the corn and beans! After cooperating beautifully in the garden, corn and beans form a complete protein when eaten together! How's that for a mutually beneficial relationship?

The Three Sisters are all easy to direct sow in the garden and are a great project for children, teaching them about the beauty of natural harmony while providing a fast-growing reward for their efforts.

Make the best possible use of your garden space this season, and try growing the Three Sisters! Just follow the easy steps listed below, fertilize well, plant other companions like herbs to assist with pest control, and you'll be harvesting your best crop in no time!

In May or June when soil has warmed:

Shape a flat-topped circular mound of soil about a foot high and 2 feet across at the top, sloping outward toward the base. Plant a circle of corn seeds on top, about 5 or 6, and water them in well, tamping down your soil mound firmly so it doesn't wash away in the first rain. Space the mounds 3 or 4 feet apart in the garden.

Since all corn grows on sturdy, dependable stalks, the variety you choose depends on the flavor, disease resistance, and holding ability you want. Sugar Buns is a Sugar Enhanced (SE) yellow hybrid with absolutely scrumptious golden kernels and is positively scrumptious. For SE whites, you can't beat Silver Princess, with extra-long ears bursting with flavor. And for the sweetest ears yet, you absolutely must try Corn Mirai, available in Yellow, White, Bicolor, and even a Mini!

About two weeks later:

When your corn reaches about 5 or 6 inches high, plant Bean seeds (6 to 8 of them) around the edges of the flat top or about halfway down the sloping sides of the circular mound. Push the seeds down deep into the soil and, if you're planting on the slope, make sure the soil is nice and firm. Add a bit of Nature's Aid at planting time to help the Beans fix nitrogen.

To get your Beans to climb up the cornstalks, choose Pole rather than Bush varieties. Smeraldo is far and away the best-tasting Pole Bean, with flat pods up to 10 inches long on vigorous 4- to 6-foot vines. Park gardeners rave about Kwintus, a super-early performer with succulent pods on stringless 8- to 10-inch pods. And is the classic name in Beans, with top-quality dark green pods that are both stringless and fiberless, even if you pick them a bit late. We even have Blue Lake available in organic seed!

One week or so after that:

Plant Squash seeds around the base of the mound, on flat ground. You can make them radiate around the mound, or just go in the direction you have available space! 6 to 8 seeds in a ring around the base of the mound is usually plenty.

The traditional Squash family member for this Sister is Pumpkin, with its all-American flavor and long growing season. For a quicker harvest, grow Summer Squash varieties such as organic Early Summer Crookneck or Zucchini such as space-saving Eight Ball Hybrid.

When everything begins growing...

Thin the plantings to 2 or 3 Corn stalks, each with no more than 2 Bean plants winding around it. (You'll need to help the Beans get started growing up the stalks). The Squash is going to vine along the ground, so the number of plants you need depends on how far apart your mounds of corn and beans are, how long the vines get, and how much walking space you need in the garden.

Add a FOURTH sister: Sunflowers!

Sunflowers attract birds, thus tempting them away from your corn plants. They shade the vining bean plants while also adding support. Plus, they're beautiful! It's a win-win situation!