Hidcote Blue Lavender Seeds

Hidcote Blue Lavender Seeds

Powerfully sweet fragrance!

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(P) Pkt of 100 seeds
Item # 01140-PK-P1
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$3.95
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Buy 6+ at $2.75 ea
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Lavender angustifolia is one of the richest in essential oils, meaning more fragrance power both fresh and dried. And this 'Hidcote Blue' cultivar has a more erect, compact habit and darker flowers, so its perfect for hedges. Fresh flowers can be crystalized and used in candies and cakes; dried flowers are used in potpourris and satchets; oils are used in creams and perfumes. And these are only some of the more common uses - imagination can create endless more!

An evergreen perennial, Lavender 'Hidcote Blue' has a subtle blue-green coloring and sweet fragrance. Reaching 12 to 18 inches high and wide, it boasts 2½-inch, linear, downy leaves on strong stems. The leaves first open white, then turn a pale gray-blue-green color. Stalks of the deepest purple flowers grow up to 14 inches tall.

Grow in a well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil in an open, sunny spot. Trim back in spring to encourage bushier growth; also deadhead after flowering. Pkt is 100 seeds.





Lavender

Lavender is such a joy in garden and home that every gardener should grow at least a containerful, and the lucky among us will be able to blanket driveways, sunny borders, and meadows with this fabulous herb. Popular since ancient times (it was used in the mummification process by the ancient Egyptians, and scented the Greek and Roman baths), it is used as a seasoning, fragrance, and home remedy, among many other things.

Lavender is not the easiest herb to grow. It needs exceptionally good drainage and prefers light, dry soils in low-humidity climates. But with the range of available varieties on the market today, you can find a Lavender that suits your climate, your soil, and your gardening style!


Choosing a Variety

With nearly 40 species and countless exciting varieties within those species, Lavandula is treasure-trove of possibilities for the gardener. Here are just two of the most popular species for American gardens:

Lavandula angustifolia, the beloved English Lavender, is renowned both for its flowers and foliage fragrance. It is used in cuisine and potpourri, besides as a spectacular fresh or dried cutflower. Among the classic cultivars are Munstead and Hidcote Blue.

Lavandula stoechas, Spanish (formerly French) Lavender, blooms earlier than its English cousin and sports a different bloom form as well as fragrance type. The flowerstalks are topped with several large, wing-like bracts known as "rabbit ears," very showy in garden or vase. The scent is more pine-like than sweet. To try a superb L. stoechas for containers or small spaces, give Sancho Panza a whirl.


When to Start Lavender Seeds

Lavender can be sown indoors in late winter or outdoors in early spring or late fall. Wherever it is sown, it will germinate in about 15 to 20 days.


How to Start Lavender Seeds

Tray

Indoors, place one seed in each bio sponge of your Bio Dome or, if you are using a seed flat, on top of the starting medium (the seeds need light to germinate). Best results are when temperatures alternate between about 55 and 72 degrees F.

Outdoors, scatter the seeds onto the soil and then cover with a row protector or very light sprinkling of soil.

Lavender can also be started from cuttings. Dip the cut end of the stem into a rooting hormone and pot it up in a sterile soil-less medium. Keep the cutting away from full sun until it has rooted.


Transplanting Lavender Plants

Lavender seedlings are ready to transplant when they have at least two sets of true leaves. Space the plants 12 inches apart in full sun in a neutral to alkaline, light, rich, sandy, well-drained soil. Drainage is critical for Lavender's success.


Special Considerations

To dry Lavender, just stand your cut stems in a dry vase, or harvest the flower spikes when the buds just begin to open and hang them upside down by their stems in a shady, cool, dry location.


Growing Tips for Lavender Plants

  • Growing Lavender in a lean soil will encourage a higher concentration of oils. An alkaline and especially chalky soil will enhance Lavender's fragrance.
  • Prune your Lavender plants in early spring to keep them from looking ragged. This will also improve their branching ability.
  • Keep in mind that although Lavender has a large, spreading root system, it prefers growing in a tight spot. If you are growing your plants in containers, select those that are just a few inches larger in diameter than the rootball. Too large a pot will only encourage excessive dampness.

Pests and Problems to Watch For

The enemies of Lavender in the garden are moisture and heavy soils. Humid, damp summer weather can cause the plants to rot.

View All Know Before You Grow Topics

Review Summary
(Based on 2 Reviews)

Overall Rating: 5.0 / 5.0

Reviews

Better Germination Than I Expected
AndyG from PA wrote on March 07, 2017

I started Hidcote and Munstead seeds. As recommended, I used a heat mat during the day (72%) and moved to the basement (60%) at night. After 14 days I had ~ 25% germination from both varieties. Over the next 15 days the rate went to ~35% for the Hidcote and 50% for the Munstead. I used mini soil blocks to start and moved up to 2 Inch blocks at around 4 leaves. First sprouts are about an inch tall with 3 layers of leaves (30 days). I expect all the seedlings will be in good shape for post frost planting (~70-80 days).

Hidcote blue lavender has taste, it self decorates
Julie from TX wrote on February 14, 2017

I planted hidcote blue lavender around 3 years ago as a safe mosquito and other pest preventative as well as for dried arrangements and home sachets. I carefully made a plan and drew up where I would have the lavender placed, then germinated over two packs of seeds in stages in my den, then planting them. I saw no result the first year and thought they did not make it. Then last year I saw thin feathery bits of greenery I had not seen before in my yard and smelled lavender strongly. I showed it to my spouse and he did not think it was lavender. I let it grow a bit, but then mowed it. This year I smelled lavender and saw the slender feathery sprigs again. There were many more of them scattered all over the front of my yard, but not where I initially planted them. I realized they would still look nice, perhaps better than I had even thought they could. So I just edged my lawn and did not mow. Well I am so glad I made this decision! Vegetables I had planted in planters in my back yard started sprouting all over my front lawn, but precisely placed along with the most gorgeous, luscious and beautiful smelling lavender. My lawn looks better than it ever did and I even got a compliment on it from a neighbor. The lavender is a bit like a ground cover and does not look messy. It is placed wonderfully as are my vegetables. What an easier way to garden than all the meticulous effort with the planters and garden beds! The lavender is interspersed with onions also and I can not smell the onions. I only trim the tops, dry them and use them as onion powder or fresh chives, and they also sprout flowers and lo and behold, miniature onions the size of small garlic cloves form on the tips for me to clip off. My spouse could not get over it staring at them in amazement. He was only convinced when he ate one that it was actually possible for mini onions to form on the tips of the onion tops. My German chamomile I container planted in my back yard that did not like it there and never flowered is somehow also coming up as a ground cover in my front yard and is also nicely placed. I recommend this form of gardening as it is beautiful and functional. The plants will place themselves. Do not pull up roots. Do not put down weed repellents, insect repellents, harmful plants or fertilizers, none are needed. I mulch with my mower and place coffee grounds once in a while on fruit trees. Trim carrot tops and taste one and you will see it tastes just like a carrot, super sweet. You will not have to replant and will doing the plants a kindness by not destroying them. Gardening was designed to be easy and beautiful and kind.

Lavender Germination Information

Lavender Seed Germination How to Sow Lavender:
  • Best sown indoors at alternating temperatures of 55 and 72°
  • NO cover is needed as light aids in germination
  • Seeds can also be sown outdoors with barely any cover
  • Sow outdoors in early spring or late fall
  • Indoors and out, expect germination in 15-20 days
  • When sowing seed outdoors, we recommend a maximum planting depth of 4X the width of the seed

How to Grow Lavender:
Transplanting: Transplant when there are at least two sets of true leaves

Spacing: Space 12 inches apart in full sun

Soil: Site in a neutral to alkaline, light, rich, sandy, well-drained soil

Additional Care: The stems will become woody with age and plants can become scraggly and ragged looking. Prune plants in the spring to keep them compact and to promote a full canopy

Appearance and Use:

This handsome herb should be a denizen of every herb garden and flower border. The 12-30 inch plants form upright mounds of gray-colored, highly aromatic foliage. In mid to late summer plants are covered in delicate spikes of purple, lavender, or pink, fragrant flowers that float above the plant on slender stems. Harvest the flower spikes when the buds just begin to open and hang them upside down by their stems in a shady, cool, dry location. Harvest the leaves for use in cooking wild game and to extract an oil used in soaps, lotions, and perfumes


About Lavender:
Botanical name: Lavandula angustifolia
Pronunciation:  lå-van’du-lå an-gus-ti-fo’le-å
Lifecycle:  Perennial
Origination: Lamiaceae; native to the Mediterranean
Which plants should I grow to repel insects?
Many of the herbs will repel insects. Pennyroyal repels fleas and other insects. Pyrethrum repels moths, flies, ants, mosquitoes, cockroaches, mites, and bedbugs. Mint repels flies, fleas, and ants. Lavender repels flies, silverfish, and fleas. Catnip can repel mosquitoes. Thyme repels insects. Lemon Grass repels mosquitoes. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes. Sage repels a variety of insects. Chrysanthemum, grown for its beautiful flowers and for the extraction of pyrethrin (an organic insecticide), repels flies, beetles, mosquitoes, roaches, lice, and fleas.

Which plants should I grow to repel rabbits and deer?
Deer eating dayliliesPlanting garlic, onions, chives, lavender, rosemary, and sage around rabbit-susceptible plants will repel rabbits. Deer repellent plants include: lavender, onion, catnip, sage, chives, garlic, spearmint, and thyme. Be sure to strategically place these repellent plants around and in between rabbit and deer-susceptible plants. Also, place some along the property line and especially at key points the rabbits and deer are using as entryways, which can even deter them from coming onto your property.

Which of your plants offered are deer resistant?
Perennials that are deer resistant include: Asclepias, Aster, Baptisia, Coreopsis, Dianthus, Digitalis, Echinacea, Gaillardia, Heuchera, Hibiscus, Malva, Monarda, Oriental Poppy, Platycodon, Peony, Rudbeckia, Salvia, Sedum, and Tricyrtis. Shrubs include: Buddleia, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Daphne, Forsythia, Fothergilla, Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon), Potentilla, Spiraea, Syringa, and Viburnum. Vines include: Clematis, Honeysuckle, Campsis, Wisteria, and Climbing Hydrangea. Trees include: Acer (Maple), Cercis (Redbud), Corylus, Fagus (Beech), Magnolia, Ginkgo, Mulberry, Spruce, and Salix (Willow).

Superior Germination Through Superior Science

Park's Superior Seeds Park Seed's humidity- and temperature-controlled seed storage vault Park Seed offers some of the highest-quality vegetable and flower seeds available in the industry, and there are a number of reasons for this.

First of all, we have humidity- and temperature-controlled storage, and we never treat any of our seeds with chemicals or pesticides. Nor do we ever sell GMO's (genetically modified seeds), so you always know the products you're buying from us are natural as well as safe for you and the environment.

Superior Standards - University Inspected

Testing seeds against minimum germination standards To make sure we are providing the best seed product possible and that our customers will get the highest number of seedlings from every packet, we conduct our own germination testing and have quality-control measures in every stage of our seed-handling operation. We hold ourselves to standards that are at or above federal and state standards, including testing specific crops more frequently than recommended by federal guidelines. And in order to maintain our organic certification, we welcome Clemson University to inspect us annually to make sure our organic seeds, which are stored and processed separately, are being handled properly.

Hand Packed By Experienced Technicians

Park Seed has been handling and packing vegetable and flower seeds for 145 years, a history that has given us a great understanding of how each variety should be cared for and maintained throughout every step of theprocess, from collection to shipping.

When packing our seeds, the majority are actually done by hand (with extreme care!), and we often over-pack them, so you're receiving more than the stated quantity.

The Park Seed Gold Standard

Park Seed's exclusive Fresh-Pak gold foil seed packets And many of our seeds are packed in our exclusive Fresh-Pak gold foil packets, which are lined to keep moisture out, so the seeds stay fresher for longer. We carefully pack very tiny or fragile seeds in crush-proof vials to ensure safe delivery to your home. Some of the small seeds are also offered as "pellets" (have a clay coating) to make sowing and growing easier.

When it comes to the kinds of seeds we offer, we are constantly seeking something new and provide many unique and hard-to-find varieties from all around the world. Our on-staff horticulturists are ready and available to share their expertise to help you with the success of these seeds, so you can grow a beautiful and productive garden!
Does Park sell GMO's or treated seeds?
GMO freeIt is important for our customers to know that Park Seed does not sell GMO or treated seed. We do buy a small amount of traditional hybrid seed from Seminis, a division of Monsanto Co., but that is all we purchase from them.

What are the differences between organic, heirloom, and hybrid seed?
Basically, organic seeds are seeds that are produced without the use and exposure to artificial/chemical fertilizers, insecticides, fungicides, herbicides, and other chemicals. They have to be grown, harvested, stored, and handled under very strict organic rules and procedures. All of our organic seeds are USDA 100% certified organic through Clemson University and the certificate has to be renewed yearly.

Heirloom Seeds are open-pollinated -- they are not hybrids. You can gather and save heirloom seed from year to year and they will grow true to type every year, so they can be passed down through generations. To be considered an heirloom, a variety would have to be at least from the 1940's and 3 generations old (many varieties are much older -- some 100 years or more!).

Hybrid seed are the product of cross-pollination between 2 different parent plants, resulting in a new plant/seed that is different from the parents. Unlike Heirloom seed, hybrid seed need to be re-purchased new every year (and not saved). They usually will not grow true to type if you save them, but will revert to one of the parents they were crossed with and most likely look/taste different in some way.

What are pelleted seeds? Why do you use them? How do I handle/sow them?
Pelleted pentas seedsExtremely small seed such as Petunias and Pentas are shipped as pelleted seed to make them easier to handle and sow. Pelleted seed are coated, usually with clay, to make them larger in size. After sowing, the coating will dissolve when wet and the seed will germinate. Pelleted seeds are shipped in vials placed inside seed packets, which protects them from being crushed. When sowing, be certain to use thoroughly moistened soil, to be sure that the clay coating absorbs enough moisture to dissolve. For sowing pelleted Petunia seeds, place the seeds directly on the soil surface and do not cover with soil, as light aids in the germination.

What is ideal temperature to germinate most seeds?
The ideal temperature to germinate most seeds is approximately 70 degrees F; give or take 1-2 degrees either way. This would be a good germination temperature for most flower and vegetable seeds and would be the most practical and feasible temperatures achieved for gardeners starting seeds in the home. You will notice for some seeds that it is recommended to use alternating day (warmer), night (cooler), temperatures, which is fine if one can provide such conditions. But most people are unable to provide those temperatures in a home setting, so just use the overall 70 degree F recommendation and the seeds should germinate well.

How long should grow lights be kept on per day and how close to the plants should the light be kept?
For germination and seedling/plant growth, you want to simulate the natural day-night cycles, and as a general rule, grow lights should be on 8-12 hours per day and off at night. You can vary this timing, as some seeds such as tomato, pepper, petunia, impatiens, and others, benefit from 14-17 hours of light per day (and the remainder of the 24 hour period in darkness). The most common grow lights used are fluorescent; using cool white, warm white, and wide-spectrum fluorescent tubes. These lights work well for germination and for growing plants up to a transplantable size. Fluorescent lights should be kept close though, 3-6 inches above the soil or the growing plants, adjusting the height as the plants grow.

How long will seeds keep in storage?
Park Seed stores seed in a special temperature- and humidity-controlled storage facility, which keeps seeds in excellent condition. Our seeds should be good for at least 1-2 years on average. Seed viability and storage time will vary depending on the seed item; some will keep a shorter time and some will keep longer. Seeds should be stored in a cool, dark, dry place. A basement will do (if not too humid), or a cool, dark room or closet. We recommend the best way to extend seed storage life is to store them in something air tight, such as a plastic zipper storage bag or canning jar, and place it in the refrigerator. This will extend the life of seeds for many years.

What is the best way to store seeds over a longer time period?
We recommend the best way to extend seed storage life is to store seeds in something air tight, such as a plastic zipper storage bag or canning jar, and place it in the refrigerator. This will extend the life of seeds for many years.

What depth should I sow various seeds?
When sowing seed outdoors, we recommend a maximum planting depth of 4X the width of the seed. When sowing seed indoors, the planting depth can be less, depending on the seed being sown, so it is always best to check specific directions. Here are some general guidelines concerning planting depth in relation to seed size: Tiny, dust-like seeds need to be sown on the surface of the growing medium or soil, uncovered, as they need light to germinate. The planting depth for small seed can be anywhere from barely covering, to 1/8-inch deep, to possibly 1/4-inch deep, depending on the recommendation. Medium seed should be planted at 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep, depending on the recommendation. Larger seeds can be planted 1-inch or deeper, depending on the recommendation.

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