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Sweet Heat Hybrid Pepper Seeds

Sweet Heat Hybrid Pepper Seeds

Early, Early, Early!


(P) Pkt of 10 seeds
Item # 52664-PK-P1

Sold Out

54 days from transplanting.

Who says you can't have it all? Sweet Heat is the perfect combination of sugary goodness and spicy heat . . . with a little smoky flavorful thrown in for good measure!

Though classified as a hot pepper, Sweet Heat scores a tongue-friendly 329 on the Scoville heat scale. These oblong, plump little peppers, just 3½ inches long and about 1½ inches in diameter, redefine "mild," because they are packed with distinctive flavor yet not so much heat that they can only be eaten by the bold.

Sweet Heat also wins fans with its quick maturity. This pepper goes from transplanting to harvesting in under 2 months, which is amazing for any variety. And it packs 65% more Vitamin C into its fruit than most others, so you get an extra pop of nutrition with every bite!

Bushy, compact, and well-branched, this plant is terrific in containers as well as the vegetable patch. Unlike many peppers, it is a bit wider than it is tall: expect it to reach 10 to 12 inches high and spread 12 to 16 inches wide. Great size for patio tubs and tall planters, where its fruit-laden branches can loll over all sides!

Sweet Heat peppers are ideal for fresh eating as well as in salsas, salads, and cooked dishes. They grill beautifully, the open fire enhancing their natural smoky notes. And they are just the right size to slice in half and fill with a savory spread for a cool summer appetizer!

Start seeds indoors 7 to 10 weeks before the last anticipated frost date. Do not transplant the seedlings into the garden until they have at least 2 sets of true leaves and the soil is warm in spring. Fertilize when the blooms appear, and water well. Fruit may be eaten green, but is most nutritious when it is bright red. Pkt is 10 seeds.





Peppers

From sweet to spicy to downright sizzling, there's a perfect Pepper for everyone! Our wide selection includes just what you're looking for -- whether you're wanting a fresh and colorful garnish for your salads or you need to spice up those Mexican and Oriental dishes or you're simply looking for a tasty and nutritious snack food, our Peppers are happy to provide. Keep reading and learn just what you need to know to grow the biggest and most delicious harvest of Peppers you've ever had! And if you've never attempted to grow these versatile veggies before, now is the time!


Choosing a Pepper Variety

When deciding what type of Peppers you want to grow, you will need to consider size, flavor, and color. In the category of sweet or salad Peppers, your choices include bell and pimento as well as some banana and cherry varieties. If heat is what you want, you can grow Habañero, Jalapeño, Anaheim, or Hungarian Peppers. Sweet and hot Peppers come in a rainbow of beautiful colors -- green, yellow, red, orange, and even purple. So not only are they delicious, they make great eye-candy!


When to Start Pepper Seeds

It's best to start your Peppers inside about 8 weeks before the last frost and at a temperature of 75-80 degrees F. They can be sown outdoors in early summer when the soil remains above 65 degrees F, but indoor germination is recommended.


How to Start Pepper Seeds

Tray

Park's Bio Dome seed starter is a great way to sow your Pepper seeds, as each Bio Sponge has a pre-drilled hole into which you can just drop one seed -- there's no need to thin seedlings or waste seeds! And you have several options, depending on how many Peppers you want to grow -- our original 60-cell Bio Dome, or our 18-cell Jumbo Bio Dome, which grows big, stocky seedlings ready to transplant right into your garden.

If you're using a potting mix, plant at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed (below a ¼ inch of soil). You can use our convenient Jiffy Pots and Strips -- Jiffy Pots are constructed of lightweight, biodegradable peat moss, so as the roots develop, they will grow right through the Jiffy Pot walls and into the garden soil.

If the room where you have your seeds isn't at least 70 degrees F, you can use a seedling heat mat to raise the temperature. As the first leaves appear, however, lower the temperature a bit, to 70-75 degrees F.

Fluorescent light for around 14 to 16 hours a day is also ideal for the fastest growth. You will want to keep the seedlings just a few inches below the light so they don't "stretch" and get "leggy". If you don't have strong artificial light, a sunny window will work, too -- just keep the clear dome on your Bio Dome to protect your seedlings from those chilly drafts.

Germination should occur in 10-15 days and fruit should appear in 50-80 days from sowing, depending on the variety.


Transplanting Pepper Plants

About 2 weeks before your transplant date work the garden soil thoroughly, adding compost and fertilizer (use a 1-2-2 ratio fertilizer, before planting and again after 6 weeks). Then cover the soil with a tarp or plastic mulch to keep the weeds from sprouting until you're ready to plant. The use of mulch or a pop-up cold frame will also warm the soil, an important step before planting your young Peppers.

Ten days before transplanting, you'll need to start "hardening off" your young plants by setting them outdoors in a lightly shaded area for an hour or two. The next day, give them a longer visit outside until they remain outdoors overnight, still in their pots. Naturally, if a cold spell hits, bring them indoors again to wait for the temperature to rise.

Your plants are ready to be transplanted when they've developed their third set of true leaves. Plant them out 2-3 weeks after the last frost, placing them 1 foot apart in rows that are 30-36 inches apart -- Pepper plants do well close together. Site them in full sun in a rich, well-drained soil. Water well and mulch to conserve moisture. If you're growing the plants in straight rows, plastic mulch is far easier and effective than loose mulch (such as straw or pine bark).

Many varieties of pepper can be grown in containers! Be sure not to set them out until several weeks after last scheduled frost, and protect them by moving the container to a frost-free location if cold weather is anticipated. Mulch them in well, and provide support if needed. Many peppers are quite ornamental, and make splendid additions to the patio, porch, or balcony. Try Sweet Pickle for a beautiful and tasty crop!


Special Considerations

Seeds germinate faster at temperatures above 80 degrees F, although fruit set benefits from the cooler nights of late summer.

Peppers are very sensitive to extreme cold, so after you've planted your seedlings, if there's a chance of a really cold or frosty night, securely cover them with a plastic bucket or plastic bag.

Unless you have no other choice, don't plant your Peppers in the same place you planted Tomatoes, Eggplant, or Peppers the year before. These veggies all belong to the same plant family and therefore have similar nutritional needs and are susceptible to similar diseases. Their presence can deplete the soil of important nutrients and possibly leave remnants of diseases in leaf litter the following year. Of course, if you aren't sure what kind of soil you've got, you can always analyze it in seconds with our economical Veggie Grower's Test Kit.


Growing Tips for Pepper Plants

  • Prepare your soil in the fall. Lay in a foot or more of bio-degradable mulch -- chopped-up leaves, grass clippings, pine bark, decayed vegetable compost, humus, and even newspaper all break down into the soil over time. This feeds the soil just what it likes so that when you approach it with a tiller or shovel in spring, it just needs to be turned over and mixed up a bit. Then top off the whole rich pile with a piece of plastic to keep the mulch "cooking" as long as possible into winter and to prevent all the good nutrients from running off in hard rains.
  • If frost still threatens after you plant your Peppers, or if you live in a short-season climate where late frosts are just part of spring, there are ways to keep your Peppers going. One way is to place a tarp over the plants, weighting it down at the edges to keep it from blowing away. Be careful, however, not to lay the tarp or plastic directly on the plants. You will need to use blocks, sticks, or whatever you have available to form a tent over your tender young Peppers. You can uncover it during the day and re-cover it at night, or leave it in place for several days and nights without damage to the plants.
  • Once your seedlings are in the ground, be sure they get sufficient water -- Pepper plants are quite thirsty in early growth. Also, make sure the soil is well drained to help prevent root rot. The soil's pH level should ideally be around 6.5 to begin with, then increased or decreased afterwards to determine the chosen flavor (more acidic soil will produce a sharper, hotter taste).
  • Onions and peas are good companion plants for your Peppers. Onions repel pests like aphids, while peas fix nitrogen, and similar to Peppers, like slightly cool conditions and close quarters. Although appreciative of warm temperatures during the day, both peas and Peppers set fruit better if they can get some relief from the heat during the evenings.
  • If necessary, stake plants when they are loaded with fruit.
  • Pick your Peppers as soon as they're big enough to eat, or you can leave them on the plants to change color and flavor gradually. Don't pull them off, but rather cut them off cleanly -- Pepper plants are fragile and pulling the fruit off may damage the stems. If a stem does get broken, use a knife or cutter to remove it cleanly. Otherwise, no pruning is necessary.
  • Be careful not to over-fertilize -- too much nitrogen will result in a great-looking bushy, green plant, but very little fruit.

Pests and Problems to Watch For

The most common pests you'll find on your Peppers are spider mites and aphids, with an occasional borer. You can get rid of them with the use of an organic insecticide or dust. Onions will also help repel aphids.

As far as diseases go, Peppers tend to be susceptible to the same problems as Tomatoes. They can also get fungal infections, which can be treated with a fungicide. Treat your plants as soon as you see a problem.

High temperatures and low humidity can cause Pepper plants to lose their blossoms. In turn, cool weather can keep them from flowering. Deep cultivation can also cause blossoms to drop, as it can induce water stress if feeder roots are cut.

View All Know Before You Grow Topics

Review Summary
(Based on 3 Reviews)

Overall Rating: 4.5 / 5.0

Reviews

A surprising treat
Steven D from NH wrote on January 26, 2019

I bought this because of the name; I'm kinda a wuss about heat but I love peppers and all they add to my cooking. I had no problem with germination (and in fact they survived a bit of better than most). Then they offered solid, compact plants with an abundance of fruit. They lived up to their name, offering a modicum of heat and lots of flavor and color.

Cute and sweet but, heat?
Housewife from MA wrote on October 21, 2016

These are cute little peppers that are sweet but I only had 1 pepper out of 8-10 highly producing plants. They have a nice sweet flavor do different from the larger sweet peppers but they aren't hot. They didn't even give a tickle on my tongue.

Cute and sweet but, heat?
Housewife from MA wrote on October 21, 2016

These are cute little peppers that are sweet but I only had 1 pepper out of 8-10 highly producing plants. They have a nice sweet flavor do different from the larger sweet peppers but they aren't hot. They didn't even give a tickle on my tongue.

Capsicum Germination Information

Capsicum is the botanical name Pepper
Capsicum Seed Germination How to Sow Capsicum:
  • Sow indoors at 75-80°F.
  • Start them 6-8 weeks before night temperatures remain above 55°F.
  • Seeds can also be sown outdoors when the soil remains above 65°F in early summer.
  • Indoors and out, sow at a depth of 4 times the size of the seeds and expect germination in 10-15 days.
  • Plants will beat fruit in 50-80 days after sowing.

How to Grow Capsicum:
Transplant when there are at least two sets of true leaves. Plant out 2-3 weeks after last frost. Spacing: Space seedlings 18-24 inches apart in rows 30-36 inches apart.

Soil:  Site in full sum in arsh, well-drained soil. Keep plants well watered and mulch them to conserve moisture. Using a 1-2-2 ratio fertilizer, feed before planting and again lightly after 6 weeks.

Appearance and Use:

This shrubby plant is grown for its edible fruit that are also highly ornamental and can be used in seasonal container displays. The fruits come in a variety of sizes, colors (green, red, yellow, orange, purple), shapes (rounded or oblong, tapered, bell-, horn-, hear-, or wedge-shaped), and degrees of sweetness and heat. Harvest them as soon as they are firm. They are edible in a variety of color stages(they mostly turn from green to red), so harvest them when they are at the right stage for that particular variety. They will hold in the field for 2-3 weeks: once harvested for a week or two.


About Capsicum:
Pronunciation:  kap’si-kum an’u-um
Lifecycle:  Annual
Origination: Solanaceae; Native to Tropical America
Common Name:Pepper Vegetable

Superior Germination Through Superior Science

Park's Superior Seeds Park Seed's humidity- and temperature-controlled seed storage vault Park Seed offers some of the highest-quality vegetable and flower seeds available in the industry, and there are a number of reasons for this.

First of all, we have humidity- and temperature-controlled storage, and we never treat any of our seeds with chemicals or pesticides. Nor do we ever sell GMO's (genetically modified seeds), so you always know the products you're buying from us are natural as well as safe for you and the environment.

Superior Standards - University Inspected

Testing seeds against minimum germination standards To make sure we are providing the best seed product possible and that our customers will get the highest number of seedlings from every packet, we conduct our own germination testing and have quality-control measures in every stage of our seed-handling operation. We hold ourselves to standards that are at or above federal and state standards, including testing specific crops more frequently than recommended by federal guidelines. And in order to maintain our organic certification, we welcome Clemson University to inspect us annually to make sure our organic seeds, which are stored and processed separately, are being handled properly.

Hand Packed By Experienced Technicians

Park Seed has been handling and packing vegetable and flower seeds for 145 years, a history that has given us a great understanding of how each variety should be cared for and maintained throughout every step of theprocess, from collection to shipping.

When packing our seeds, the majority are actually done by hand (with extreme care!), and we often over-pack them, so you're receiving more than the stated quantity.

The Park Seed Gold Standard

Park Seed's exclusive Fresh-Pak gold foil seed packets And many of our seeds are packed in our exclusive Fresh-Pak gold foil packets, which are lined to keep moisture out, so the seeds stay fresher for longer. We carefully pack very tiny or fragile seeds in crush-proof vials to ensure safe delivery to your home. Some of the small seeds are also offered as "pellets" (have a clay coating) to make sowing and growing easier.

When it comes to the kinds of seeds we offer, we are constantly seeking something new and provide many unique and hard-to-find varieties from all around the world. Our on-staff horticulturists are ready and available to share their expertise to help you with the success of these seeds, so you can grow a beautiful and productive garden!