Aspabroc Hybrid Broccoli Seeds
The Original (and best!) Broccolini®!
Cut the tiny central head, then watch side-shoots keep coming for more than a month!
- Genus: Brassica
- Species: oleracea
- Variety: Aspabroc Hybrid
- Item Form: (P) Pkt of 20 seeds
- Days to Maturity: 60
- Fruit Color: Green
- Habit: Upright
- Seeds Per Pack: 20
- Plant Height: 20 in - 24 in
- Plant Width: 8 in
- Additional Characteristics: Cool Season, Cut-and-Come-Again, Edible, Season Extenders
- Harvest Season: Early Fall, Early Summer, Late Summer, Mid Fall, Mid Summer
- Light Requirements: Full Sun
- Moisture Requirements: Moist, well-drained
- Resistance: Cold Hardy
- Soil Tolerance: Normal, loamy
- Uses: Beds, Containers, Cuisine, Outdoor
- show more
60 days from transplanting.
Aspabroc is the original Broccolini,® developed more than 20 years ago and often imitated since. It is a cross of two types of broccoli: Italian Sprouting and Chinese Kale or Gai Lan, a leafy, thick-stemmed type with fabulous flavor. Aspabroc takes its name from the asparagus look and texture of its slender, succulent stems, but this is 100% broccoli, with a peppery-sweet bite you will savor.
This gourmet variety is delicious from top to bottom, with really exceptional flavor and texture. But what you may appreciate just as much, as a gardener, is its yields. Once you harvest the central crown (which you can do at about 50 days; it will be small but scrumptious!), about 5 or 6 side-shoots will appear. A little more than a week later, these can be harvested as well, so that new ones grow. The process repeats for more than a month! That's an amazing harvest from every plant, and the later side-shoots are just as delectable as the first ones.
Unlike traditional broccoli, Aspabroc has tender stems all the way to the ground, with small, delicious leaves. Occasionally a rogue yellow flower will set, especially if you are growing this broccolini® in late spring in a warm climate. Go ahead and eat the flower, too -- you'll be surprised at how good it is! And the stems are slender and smooth, so you need never peel or chop them.
The key to harvesting Aspabroc is to cut that central crown as soon as it's formed. This will lead to great side-shoot production. After that, you're fixed up for great eating for many weeks to come!
Asprabroc is a fine crop for spring or fall. It is not as frost-tolerant as traditional heading broccoli might be, but in fall it can be grown right up to hard frost or placed in a cold frame. It is an excellent performer in spring. This plant reaches about 20 to 24 inches high, and should be spaced about 8 to 10 inches apart in the garden. Suitable for containers too, of course!
Sow the seeds of this cool-season crop directly, or transplant the seedlings into the garden when they have 4 true leaves. Before planting, prepare the soil well, adding nitrogen if necessary and neutralizing heavily alkaline or acid soils. For spring crops, start seeds indoors 5 to 7 weeks before last frost date, then set out when the soil is warm enough to work. If planting in fall, start 10 to 12 weeks before first frost date. Pkt is 20 seeds.
If you want vegetables that are loaded with vitamins and nutrients as well as delicious flavors and beautiful, eye-catching colors, look no further than our numerous varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower! These really are“super-veggies”, packing a healthy punch in every scrumptious bite, offering heavy yields so you'll have plenty of fresh produce for every meal, and proving hardy and versatile enough to satisfy everyone!
Choosing a Broccoli or Cauliflower Variety
All Broccoli and Cauliflower are packed with vitamins and nutrients, so when choosing what varieties to grow, you'll base your decision mostly on size and color. There are several compact types that don't require a lot of space, so they're the best choice for a limited gardening area. Heat tolerance is also a factor, especially for those living in the south. And if you're wanting to get your children to eat more healthy veggies, you might want to look at the more colorful, fun varieties!
When to Start Broccoli and Cauliflower
Broccoli seeds are best started indoors 7 to 9 weeks before the last frost, at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees F. They can also be sown outdoors 2 weeks before the last frost. For a winter crop in zones 8 and warmer, sow in late summer. Expect germination in 10 to 14 days.
The same guidelines apply to Cauliflower, except when starting indoors, sow your seeds 5 to 7 weeks before the last frost. Expect germination in 8 to 10 days.
Since Cauliflower is more sensitive to cold than its cabbage-family relatives, you need to start it early enough that it has a chance to mature before the heat of the summer. Be careful, however, not to start it so early it gets damaged by the cold.
How to Start Broccoli and Cauliflower
Sow your Broccoli and Cauliflower seeds at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed, or ½ inch deep, and water thoroughly. Once the seeds have sprouted, be sure to keep the soil lightly moist.
Make sure the plants receive plenty of light -- fluorescent light for around 14 to 16 hours a day is also ideal for the fastest growth. You will want to keep the seedlings just a few inches below the light so they don't“stretch”and get“leggy". If you don't have fluorescent lighting, a south-facing window will do just fine.
Broccoli -- 45 to 60 days from sowing to harvesting
Cauliflower -- 30 to 80 days from sowing to harvesting
Transplanting Broccoli and Cauliflower Seedlings
Transplant your Broccoli and Cauliflower seedlings when they have at least two sets of true leaves. This should be done about 2 weeks before the last frost. Site them in full sun in a rich, moist, well-drained soil, spacing the young plants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows that are 2½ to 3 feet apart. Feed both your Broccoli and Cauliflower with a low nitrogen fertilizer when first planting out. For your Broccoli, fertilize again when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, 12 to 15 inches tall, and then when the buds first form. For your Cauliflower, fertilize again every 4 weeks. Keep the seedlings well watered and mulched to retain moisture and keep the roots cool.
Special Considerations
If your seedlings have been held too long or mistreated in some way before planting, they can create“buttons”, or small heads, that tend to flower prematurely.
Climatic elements such as extreme cold and drought can cause your plants to halt their full growth and form only “buttons”.
Don't allow your transplants to get too mature before moving them to your garden. If you do, they may become stressed by transplant shock.
A starter fertilizer applied when you transplant your seedlings will get your Broccoli and Cauliflower off to a good start, but it will not compensate for all the possible problems just mentioned.
Beets, Onions, and Garlic are all good companions for your Broccoli and Cauliflower.
Growing Tips: Broccoli and Cauliflower
- Broccoli -- once the head is fully developed, but before the individual flowers start to open, cut the central head along with 5 or 6 inches of stem. Removing the central head will stimulate development of the side shoots, which will allow you to continue your harvest for several weeks.
- Cauliflower -- the heads (curds) develop quickly under proper conditions, typically growing to 6 to 8 inches within 7 to 12 days after branching begins. Harvest the mature heads (they should be compact and firm) by cutting the main stem. If the heads develop a coarse,“ricey”appearance, they have over-matured. Cauliflower does not typically have side shoots, so you can compost the plants after the heads have been harvested.
- Store fresh, unwashed Broccoli in your refrigerator's vegetable crisper for 3 to 5 days. Put it in a loose or perforated plastic bad, being sure not to store it if it's wet -- wet Broccoli will quickly become limp and can get moldy. Its best flavor and nutritional value will be maintained if storage is brief.
- Uncooked Cauliflower can be stored in a paper or plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. Place it stem side down to keep moisture from collecting in the florets.
Pests and Problems to Watch For
- Aphids are often found on the underside of leaves. You can wash them off with a strong stream of water or use an insecticidal soap (be sure to follow the label instructions). Check the plants regularly, as aphids can be a recurring problem.
- Cabbage worms tend to attack the leaves and heads of related cole crops. Cole crops are crops that belong to the mustard family and have similar cultural requirements. They're hardy plants that prefer cool weather. The most commonly grown cole crops are Broccoli, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Kale, Collards, and Kohlrabi.
- There are three species of cabbage worms -- imported cabbage worms, cabbage loopers, and diamond back moth worms. They're very destructive to plants, as they have a voracious appetite. Covering the plants with screening or a row cover can prevent the presence of these pests.
Brassica Germination Information
Brassica is the botanical name for Ornamental Cabbage and Kale
How to Sow Brassica:- Sow indoors, covering the seeds with 4X their thickness in soil
- Maintain the temperature of 68°-70° F during germination
- Germination takes takes 3-10 days
- For early spring color, sow in late winter
- When sowing seed outdoors, we recommend a maximum planting depth of 4X the width of the seed
How to Grow Brassica:
Space: Space seedlings 12 inches apart in rich, well-drained soil and full sun
Soil: Keep the soil evenly moist and fertilize moderately
Temperature: Thrives in 60° F nights and tolerates deep shade
Transplanting and additional care: It is easy to transplant and shows the best color if fertilizer is withheld during the last month of production and is grown cool (60°F). In zones 8-10, discourage weeds and protect the roots in winter
Appearance and Use:
Decorative, ornamental plants for beds, borders, and edging. Brassica is beautiful in containers. Ornamental Kale can also be eaten or used as a garnish.Plants display thick green leaves held in rosettes 12 inches across with centers of white, rose, or purple in fall and winter
About Brassica:
Pronunciation: bras’i-cå o-ler-a’se-a
Lifecycle: Ornamental Kale
Origination: Brassicaceae; native to Europe
Common Names: Ornamental Cabbage and Kale
Superior Germination Through Superior Science
Park Seed offers some of the highest-quality vegetable and flower seeds available in the industry, and there are a number of reasons for this.First of all, we have humidity- and temperature-controlled storage, and we never treat any of our seeds with chemicals or pesticides. Nor do we ever sell GMO's (genetically modified seeds), so you always know the products you're buying from us are natural as well as safe for you and the environment.
Superior Standards - University Inspected
To make sure we are providing the best seed product possible and that our customers will get the highest number of seedlings from every packet, we conduct our own germination testing and have quality-control measures in every stage of our seed-handling operation. We hold ourselves to standards that are at or above federal and state standards, including testing specific crops more frequently than recommended by federal guidelines. And in order to maintain our organic certification, we welcome Clemson University to inspect us annually to make sure our organic seeds, which are stored and processed separately, are being handled properly.
Hand Packed By Experienced Technicians
Park Seed has been handling and packing vegetable and flower seeds for 145 years, a history that has given us a great understanding of how each variety should be cared for and maintained throughout every step of theprocess, from collection to shipping.
When packing our seeds, the majority are actually done by hand (with extreme care!), and we often over-pack them, so you're receiving more than the stated quantity.
The Park Seed Gold Standard
And many of our seeds are packed in our exclusive Fresh-Pak gold foil packets, which are lined to keep moisture out, so the seeds stay fresher for longer. We carefully pack very tiny or fragile seeds in crush-proof vials to ensure safe delivery to your home. Some of the small seeds are also offered as "pellets" (have a clay coating) to make sowing and growing easier.
When it comes to the kinds of seeds we offer, we are constantly seeking something new and provide many unique and hard-to-find varieties from all around the world. Our on-staff horticulturists are ready and available to share their expertise to help you with the success of these seeds, so you can grow a beautiful and productive garden!
It is important for our customers to know that Park Seed does not sell GMO or treated seed. We do buy a small amount of traditional hybrid seed from Seminis, a division of Monsanto Co., but that is all we purchase from them.
Heirloom Seeds are open-pollinated -- they are not hybrids. You can gather and save heirloom seed from year to year and they will grow true to type every year, so they can be passed down through generations. To be considered an heirloom, a variety would have to be at least from the 1940's and 3 generations old (many varieties are much older -- some 100 years or more!).
Hybrid seed are the product of cross-pollination between 2 different parent plants, resulting in a new plant/seed that is different from the parents. Unlike Heirloom seed, hybrid seed need to be re-purchased new every year (and not saved). They usually will not grow true to type if you save them, but will revert to one of the parents they were crossed with and most likely look/taste different in some way.
Extremely small seed such as Petunias and Pentas are shipped as pelleted seed to make them easier to handle and sow. Pelleted seed are coated, usually with clay, to make them larger in size. After sowing, the coating will dissolve when wet and the seed will germinate. Pelleted seeds are shipped in vials placed inside seed packets, which protects them from being crushed. When sowing, be certain to use thoroughly moistened soil, to be sure that the clay coating absorbs enough moisture to dissolve. For sowing pelleted Petunia seeds, place the seeds directly on the soil surface and do not cover with soil, as light aids in the germination.
60 days from transplanting.
Aspabroc is the original Broccolini,® developed more than 20 years ago and often imitated since. It is a cross of two types of broccoli: Italian Sprouting and Chinese Kale or Gai Lan, a leafy, thick-stemmed type with fabulous flavor. Aspabroc takes its name from the asparagus look and texture of its slender, succulent stems, but this is 100% broccoli, with a peppery-sweet bite you will savor.
This gourmet variety is delicious from top to bottom, with really exceptional flavor and texture. But what you may appreciate just as much, as a gardener, is its yields. Once you harvest the central crown (which you can do at about 50 days; it will be small but scrumptious!), about 5 or 6 side-shoots will appear. A little more than a week later, these can be harvested as well, so that new ones grow. The process repeats for more than a month! That's an amazing harvest from every plant, and the later side-shoots are just as delectable as the first ones.
Unlike traditional broccoli, Aspabroc has tender stems all the way to the ground, with small, delicious leaves. Occasionally a rogue yellow flower will set, especially if you are growing this broccolini® in late spring in a warm climate. Go ahead and eat the flower, too -- you'll be surprised at how good it is! And the stems are slender and smooth, so you need never peel or chop them.
The key to harvesting Aspabroc is to cut that central crown as soon as it's formed. This will lead to great side-shoot production. After that, you're fixed up for great eating for many weeks to come!
Asprabroc is a fine crop for spring or fall. It is not as frost-tolerant as traditional heading broccoli might be, but in fall it can be grown right up to hard frost or placed in a cold frame. It is an excellent performer in spring. This plant reaches about 20 to 24 inches high, and should be spaced about 8 to 10 inches apart in the garden. Suitable for containers too, of course!
Sow the seeds of this cool-season crop directly, or transplant the seedlings into the garden when they have 4 true leaves. Before planting, prepare the soil well, adding nitrogen if necessary and neutralizing heavily alkaline or acid soils. For spring crops, start seeds indoors 5 to 7 weeks before last frost date, then set out when the soil is warm enough to work. If planting in fall, start 10 to 12 weeks before first frost date. Pkt is 20 seeds.
If you want vegetables that are loaded with vitamins and nutrients as well as delicious flavors and beautiful, eye-catching colors, look no further than our numerous varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower! These really are“super-veggies”, packing a healthy punch in every scrumptious bite, offering heavy yields so you'll have plenty of fresh produce for every meal, and proving hardy and versatile enough to satisfy everyone!
Choosing a Broccoli or Cauliflower Variety
All Broccoli and Cauliflower are packed with vitamins and nutrients, so when choosing what varieties to grow, you'll base your decision mostly on size and color. There are several compact types that don't require a lot of space, so they're the best choice for a limited gardening area. Heat tolerance is also a factor, especially for those living in the south. And if you're wanting to get your children to eat more healthy veggies, you might want to look at the more colorful, fun varieties!
When to Start Broccoli and Cauliflower
Broccoli seeds are best started indoors 7 to 9 weeks before the last frost, at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees F. They can also be sown outdoors 2 weeks before the last frost. For a winter crop in zones 8 and warmer, sow in late summer. Expect germination in 10 to 14 days.
The same guidelines apply to Cauliflower, except when starting indoors, sow your seeds 5 to 7 weeks before the last frost. Expect germination in 8 to 10 days.
Since Cauliflower is more sensitive to cold than its cabbage-family relatives, you need to start it early enough that it has a chance to mature before the heat of the summer. Be careful, however, not to start it so early it gets damaged by the cold.
How to Start Broccoli and Cauliflower
Sow your Broccoli and Cauliflower seeds at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed, or ½ inch deep, and water thoroughly. Once the seeds have sprouted, be sure to keep the soil lightly moist.
Make sure the plants receive plenty of light -- fluorescent light for around 14 to 16 hours a day is also ideal for the fastest growth. You will want to keep the seedlings just a few inches below the light so they don't“stretch”and get“leggy". If you don't have fluorescent lighting, a south-facing window will do just fine.
Broccoli -- 45 to 60 days from sowing to harvesting
Cauliflower -- 30 to 80 days from sowing to harvesting
Transplanting Broccoli and Cauliflower Seedlings
Transplant your Broccoli and Cauliflower seedlings when they have at least two sets of true leaves. This should be done about 2 weeks before the last frost. Site them in full sun in a rich, moist, well-drained soil, spacing the young plants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows that are 2½ to 3 feet apart. Feed both your Broccoli and Cauliflower with a low nitrogen fertilizer when first planting out. For your Broccoli, fertilize again when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, 12 to 15 inches tall, and then when the buds first form. For your Cauliflower, fertilize again every 4 weeks. Keep the seedlings well watered and mulched to retain moisture and keep the roots cool.
Special Considerations
If your seedlings have been held too long or mistreated in some way before planting, they can create“buttons”, or small heads, that tend to flower prematurely.
Climatic elements such as extreme cold and drought can cause your plants to halt their full growth and form only “buttons”.
Don't allow your transplants to get too mature before moving them to your garden. If you do, they may become stressed by transplant shock.
A starter fertilizer applied when you transplant your seedlings will get your Broccoli and Cauliflower off to a good start, but it will not compensate for all the possible problems just mentioned.
Beets, Onions, and Garlic are all good companions for your Broccoli and Cauliflower.
Growing Tips: Broccoli and Cauliflower
- Broccoli -- once the head is fully developed, but before the individual flowers start to open, cut the central head along with 5 or 6 inches of stem. Removing the central head will stimulate development of the side shoots, which will allow you to continue your harvest for several weeks.
- Cauliflower -- the heads (curds) develop quickly under proper conditions, typically growing to 6 to 8 inches within 7 to 12 days after branching begins. Harvest the mature heads (they should be compact and firm) by cutting the main stem. If the heads develop a coarse,“ricey”appearance, they have over-matured. Cauliflower does not typically have side shoots, so you can compost the plants after the heads have been harvested.
- Store fresh, unwashed Broccoli in your refrigerator's vegetable crisper for 3 to 5 days. Put it in a loose or perforated plastic bad, being sure not to store it if it's wet -- wet Broccoli will quickly become limp and can get moldy. Its best flavor and nutritional value will be maintained if storage is brief.
- Uncooked Cauliflower can be stored in a paper or plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. Place it stem side down to keep moisture from collecting in the florets.
Pests and Problems to Watch For
- Aphids are often found on the underside of leaves. You can wash them off with a strong stream of water or use an insecticidal soap (be sure to follow the label instructions). Check the plants regularly, as aphids can be a recurring problem.
- Cabbage worms tend to attack the leaves and heads of related cole crops. Cole crops are crops that belong to the mustard family and have similar cultural requirements. They're hardy plants that prefer cool weather. The most commonly grown cole crops are Broccoli, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Kale, Collards, and Kohlrabi.
- There are three species of cabbage worms -- imported cabbage worms, cabbage loopers, and diamond back moth worms. They're very destructive to plants, as they have a voracious appetite. Covering the plants with screening or a row cover can prevent the presence of these pests.
Brassica Germination Information
Brassica is the botanical name for Ornamental Cabbage and Kale How to Sow Brassica:- Sow indoors, covering the seeds with 4X their thickness in soil
- Maintain the temperature of 68°-70° F during germination
- Germination takes takes 3-10 days
- For early spring color, sow in late winter
- When sowing seed outdoors, we recommend a maximum planting depth of 4X the width of the seed
How to Grow Brassica:
Space: Space seedlings 12 inches apart in rich, well-drained soil and full sun
Soil: Keep the soil evenly moist and fertilize moderately
Temperature: Thrives in 60° F nights and tolerates deep shade
Transplanting and additional care: It is easy to transplant and shows the best color if fertilizer is withheld during the last month of production and is grown cool (60°F). In zones 8-10, discourage weeds and protect the roots in winter
Appearance and Use:
Decorative, ornamental plants for beds, borders, and edging. Brassica is beautiful in containers. Ornamental Kale can also be eaten or used as a garnish.Plants display thick green leaves held in rosettes 12 inches across with centers of white, rose, or purple in fall and winter
About Brassica:
Pronunciation: bras’i-cå o-ler-a’se-a
Lifecycle: Ornamental Kale
Origination: Brassicaceae; native to Europe
Common Names: Ornamental Cabbage and Kale
Superior Germination Through Superior Science
Park Seed offers some of the highest-quality vegetable and flower seeds available in the industry, and there are a number of reasons for this.First of all, we have humidity- and temperature-controlled storage, and we never treat any of our seeds with chemicals or pesticides. Nor do we ever sell GMO's (genetically modified seeds), so you always know the products you're buying from us are natural as well as safe for you and the environment.
Superior Standards - University Inspected
To make sure we are providing the best seed product possible and that our customers will get the highest number of seedlings from every packet, we conduct our own germination testing and have quality-control measures in every stage of our seed-handling operation. We hold ourselves to standards that are at or above federal and state standards, including testing specific crops more frequently than recommended by federal guidelines. And in order to maintain our organic certification, we welcome Clemson University to inspect us annually to make sure our organic seeds, which are stored and processed separately, are being handled properly.
Hand Packed By Experienced Technicians
Park Seed has been handling and packing vegetable and flower seeds for 145 years, a history that has given us a great understanding of how each variety should be cared for and maintained throughout every step of theprocess, from collection to shipping.
When packing our seeds, the majority are actually done by hand (with extreme care!), and we often over-pack them, so you're receiving more than the stated quantity.
The Park Seed Gold Standard
And many of our seeds are packed in our exclusive Fresh-Pak gold foil packets, which are lined to keep moisture out, so the seeds stay fresher for longer. We carefully pack very tiny or fragile seeds in crush-proof vials to ensure safe delivery to your home. Some of the small seeds are also offered as "pellets" (have a clay coating) to make sowing and growing easier.
When it comes to the kinds of seeds we offer, we are constantly seeking something new and provide many unique and hard-to-find varieties from all around the world. Our on-staff horticulturists are ready and available to share their expertise to help you with the success of these seeds, so you can grow a beautiful and productive garden!
It is important for our customers to know that Park Seed does not sell GMO or treated seed. We do buy a small amount of traditional hybrid seed from Seminis, a division of Monsanto Co., but that is all we purchase from them.
Heirloom Seeds are open-pollinated -- they are not hybrids. You can gather and save heirloom seed from year to year and they will grow true to type every year, so they can be passed down through generations. To be considered an heirloom, a variety would have to be at least from the 1940's and 3 generations old (many varieties are much older -- some 100 years or more!).
Hybrid seed are the product of cross-pollination between 2 different parent plants, resulting in a new plant/seed that is different from the parents. Unlike Heirloom seed, hybrid seed need to be re-purchased new every year (and not saved). They usually will not grow true to type if you save them, but will revert to one of the parents they were crossed with and most likely look/taste different in some way.
Extremely small seed such as Petunias and Pentas are shipped as pelleted seed to make them easier to handle and sow. Pelleted seed are coated, usually with clay, to make them larger in size. After sowing, the coating will dissolve when wet and the seed will germinate. Pelleted seeds are shipped in vials placed inside seed packets, which protects them from being crushed. When sowing, be certain to use thoroughly moistened soil, to be sure that the clay coating absorbs enough moisture to dissolve. For sowing pelleted Petunia seeds, place the seeds directly on the soil surface and do not cover with soil, as light aids in the germination.